Though the very thought of thirstquenching rosé may be tempting fate, summer of 2010 to date has been kind to those of us whose rosé-tinted glasses are always half full. Late August is the moment when the weather could go either way, a downhill slide towards a gloomy autumn or the glorious afterglow of an Indian summer. The latter, let’s hope, as do England’s winemakers, who are hoping for a great vintage for English wines with one eye on the 2012 Olympics.

It’s a time when holidaymakers on the great trek home are wondering where on earth to get hold of that summer’s lease of a rosé that imbued the hols with such a rosy glow. And whether it will travel. If it tasted like liquid heaven in situ, your enjoyment probably had as much to do with the sunshine, the company, the fresh fish, salad and charcuterie; ambience, in a word. Even if you do manage to locate your wine here, it won’t be so easy to re-create that special atmosphere. Take Pastis. I can’t get enough of its appetite-whetting virtues in the South of France. Back home, I can leave it.

What I can offer is a basis for that ambience and leave the rest to you. One delicious rosé tasted recently is the 2009 Domaine Sainte Lucie MiP, Made in Provence Classic Rosé, £6.95, half-litre, Lea & Sandeman, pale onion-skin, aromatic and delightfully dry, the archetypal berry fruitiness of Provençal rosé. From the Ardèche, the 2009 Maguelonne Rosé IGP Coteaux de l’Ardèche, £9.99, on offer at £7.99, until today, Oddbins, is a fresh and vivid, intensely raspberryish full-bodied Rhône blend from Château de la Selve.

Winner in the rosé category of the Vin de France competition this year was a clean, fresh apple and raspberryish 2009 Brise de France Rosé made from the cinsault grape, around £5.50, Upton-on-Severn Wines (01684 592668), Cranbrook Wines, Barking (0208 5078447). Aptly from la ville rose of Toulouse, Domaine du Chiroulet’s 2009 Temps des Fleurs, Côtes de Gascogne, £7.40, Drinks of France, in at the end of month, (drinksoffrance.co.uk), a spicy, rosehip and red cherryish blend, was another success. As was the 2009 Le Roc, La Saignée, £8.95, Lea & Sandeman, an aromatic blend with herbal notes behind its dry redcurrant fruitiness.

Given the value of Spanish rosado, it would be unfair to let French pinks have it all their own way. The 2009 Muga Rioja Rosado, £8.99, buy 2 = £7.99, Majestic, is one of the best new-wave riojas rosados. Miguel Torres’ popular 2009 Torres Viña Sol Rosé, £5.19, until Tuesday, normally £6.69, Waitrose, with the peppery aromas and refreshing berry fruit freshness of garnacha and cariñena, is a pleasure to drink. As are the moreishly strawberryish 2009 Pleyades Garnacha Rosado, £5.61, Asda, and delightfully dry 2009 Campaneo Seléccion Old Vines Garnacha Rosé, £6.02, Asda.

Great summer weather or not, you shouldn’t need an excuse to enjoy rosé fizz of the quality of the Champagne Delamotte Rosé, £37.99, Corney & Barrow (020 7265 2444; corneyandbrrow.com), a super-elegant, dry salmon pink fizz whose raspberryish mousse melts in the mouth to leave you feeling as satisfyingly refreshed as a dip in the Med. For a handy budget alternative, you might try the Simonnet-Febvre Crémant de Bourgogne Rosé, around, £12.99 - £14.99, Bablake Wines, Bristol (0117 941 1511), Larners of Holt (01263 712244), a sparkling pinot noir with a sherbety summer pudding tang.

Something for the Weekend

Under a Fiver

2009 Cuvée Pêcheur, Vin de Pays du Comté Tolosan

A little Gascon gem from Toulouse, this is a refreshingly herbal, apple and pear blend of the south-west’s colombard and ugni blanc made in a mouthwateringly citrusy style, and ideal for al fresco pursuits. £3.99, Waitrose.

Under a Tenner

2009 Bodegas y Viñedos Monfil Garnacha, Cariñena

This great value Spanish red with its fresh plum and cherry aromas, succulently juicy fruit and damsony bite tinged with mild gamey undertones stood out at L& S’ summer tasting. £6.95, Lea & Sandeman (020 7244 0522; leaandsandeman.co.uk).

Splash Out

2008 Langhe Nebbiolo, Serralunga d’Alba

A perfumed summer pudding red with fresh, cherryish fruitiness and a peppery twist, this invitingly fresh, lightly grippy nebbiolo from Sergio and Ettore Germano in Piedmont is a temptingly affordable answer to barolo. £15.99, case price £12.79, Oddbins (limited availability).