The Four Palmas

An invitation to join in the blending of González Byass’ new Palmas range doesn’t come along every day, so when Martin Skelton, who heads up the UK office,, invited me, it didn’t take me long to say yes, yes please even. Imagine a game-loving monarchist being invited on a shoot at Balmoral with the Queen. Maurizio González Gordon, who runs the traditional family Jerez firm of González Byass, is sherry royalty, so the opportunity to join in the blending was not to be missed.

Antonio Flores

Antonio Flores, González Byass’ chief winemaker, was born inside the winery, literally, and has made Tio Pepe since 1980. Naturally he needed my help in blending the four special finos that make up the Palmas range. In the quiet of the tall, dark bodega, we tasted 20 barrels for each of the Una, Dos and Tres Palmas. Selecting our favourite 10 samples of each, we whittled them down to four in the analytical setting of the tasting room. Una is the most delicate, Dos more yeasty and brioche-like, Tres starting to develop nuttier, buttery notes.

Palmas in the archive dating back to 1861

The name Palmas comes from the traditional chalk mark drawn on barrels chosen for the special delicacy of the wine. One chalk mark is made for the youngest and four for the oldest, shaped like a palm leaf, hence Palmas. Una, Dos and Tres are chosen from Tio Pepe barrels aged between six and 10 years old that have kept their protective white veil of yeast, or flor. For the rarest, Cuatro Palmas, we chose the nuttiest, most concentrated, amontillado-like of the six remaining barrels aged 40 plus.

Una, Dos, Tres, Cuatro

The idea for cherry-picking the best of Tio Pepe to create these four genuinely traditional styles is in line with the vogue for appetisingly food-friendly dry styles of fino. Thanks in part to the tapas bar phenomenon, the trend is on an upward curve against a backdrop of declining sales of the sweeter vicars and maiden aunts sherries. A recent big sherry tasting in London showed that the region’s more forward-looking producers are hanging their sombreros on a host of new wave, quality dry styles and special bottlings like en rama and Palmas.

Awaiting the Bodega Mouse

The Palmas will be on sale this month through the likes of the Wine Society, Justerini & Brooks, Berry Bros. and Lea & Sandeman with recommended prices in ascending order of £12.49, £16.99, £36.99 and £51.99. Check now if you’re interested because they’ll fly. To replicate the idea of Una Palma, try Delicado Fino, 50 cl, £13.99, Waitrose, for its savoury aromas, fresh bread yeasty characters and appetising tang. Also delicious is Lustau’s Manzanilla Pasada, £7.49, Marks & Spencer, all cashew nuttiness and bone dry, salty-savoury bite. For a full account, check out www.anthonyrosewine.com. Finally, don’t miss out on tickets for The Wine Gang’s fabulous Christmas Fair in Bath’s Guildhall on 24 November: http://www.thewinegang.com/live/.

Hi! They call me Uncle Pepe

A full account of the process of creating this year's Palmas is due to appear in this coming Thursday's Shanghai Daily, free to view for seven days at http://www.shanghaidaily.com and I will also post it, with pictures, to www.anthonyrosewine.com

Something for the Weekend 3 November

Staying In

2011 De Bortoli DB Family Selection Shiraz, South East Australia

This apparent common or garden Aussie shiraz punches above its weight for its spicy aromas combined with a surprisingly bright peppery, raspberryish fruit succulence in moreish, Rhône-like style. £5.49, down from £7.49, Waitrose.

Dinner Party

2011 Plantagenet Great Southern Riesling, Western Australia

Floral, citrusy aromas and an intensely juicy lemon and lime zesty quality of fruit, whose sea-breezy tang makes it a mouthwatering dry white for seafood. £13.50 - £14.99, The Wine Tasting Shop (02086168658), Bennetts (01608661409), Noel Young (01223566744).

Splash Out

2009 Le Haut Médoc de Giscours

This youthful half merlot, half cabernet sauvignon blend from Château Giscours shows the classic cedary claret pedigree allied to a chocolatey, cassis-like richness with a spicy liquoricey edge. £22, buy 6 = £16.50 until 11 November, Marks & Spencer.