Was it coincidence that the autumn wine ranges of the UK’s Big Two wine clubs, Laithwaites and The Wine Society, were paraded on consecutive days? Theale-based Laithwaites (laithwaites.com) with its aggressive advertising couldn’t be more different in ethos than the genteel, non-profit-making Wine Society in Stevenage. Differences apart, both are dynamic, modern operations with first-rate wine buying teams. And both have clearly spent time improving on the quality and ambit of their wine ranges.

One of the wine trade’s great success stories, the schoolmasterly Tony Laithwaite ambled over to tell me how delighted he was with things now that he was taking more of a back seat. Not surprisingly. From a man with a van to a man with a brand, Tony Laithwaite now presides over an empire of a million customers worldwide, annual sales of £340 million and 2500 wines on the list. Even if he’s has handed over the big cheese job to Simon McMurtrie, his avuncular persona will stand Laithwaites in good stead in its progress towards global domination.

From the tasting, I enjoyed a classic 2009 Domaine Michel Thomas Sancerre, £12.99,with its herbal fragrance and textured, gooseberry fruit, and dry finish and it value for money new World counterpart, the nettley, gooseberry flavours of the Cape’s 2010 Stumble Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, £7.49. The New World is often well done here and it showed in Pikes’ classic 2009 Clare Hills Riesling, £8.49, an aromatic dry white with mouthwatering lime zest flavours. Rosé also showed well, particularly the scrumptious strawberry and cherry 2009 Château de Ségries Rosé, Tavel, £11.99.

The choice of the 2009 Château Rollin, £13.99, was telling, a seductively bright new wave Bordeaux with no obvious oak but oodles of bright and juicy blackcurrant and cherry fruitiness. While waiting for the excellent 2009 Rhônes to be bottled, it’s worth giving the 2008 Dolines de l'Hortus, spicy with ginger and orange zest and silky tannins, a workout. Speaking of New World value, there are few more affordable reds around than the 2009 Don Cayetano Carmenère, £6.49, a perky, peppery Chilean red that comes on like a tasty claret. Compare and contrast with one of the new World’s great red wines, the lapsang-smoky, textured, chocolatey 2005 Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz, £50.

The Wine Society (www.thewinesociety.com) needs little introduction from me, suffice to say that no-one I know regrets the £40 membership fee paid for a lifetime share. The Society’s wines often have more bottle age than Laithwaites, a feature I appreciate. The 2007 Allende White Rioja, £18, showed how worthwhile this can be, a stylish, nutty, deliciously rich dry white whose complexity rivals good white Burgundy. Same goes for the white Burgundy lookalike from California in the gloriously rich, complex, butterscotchy 2006 Au Bon Climat Sanford and Benedict Chardonnay, £25.

It was good to see how a wine like the 2006 D’Arenberg The Footbolt Shiraz, £11.95, had softened with bottle age into smoky-rich, blackberry fruit and cinnamon-spiced middle age; while the 2006 Clos Floridène, Graves, £14.95, had retained a vigorous presence through its stylish cassis-laden fruit quality. They contrasted with the brilliant Henri Marionnet’s 2009 Touraine Gamay, Première Vendange, £9.95, a nubile, cherryish autumn red that blows most Beaujolais away. If you think The Wine Society pricey, the Alandra NV from Herdade de Esporão, a moreishly damsony Portuguese tinto, £5.95, should change preconceptions. To the slick operation and the venerable institution, we aim to return with Christmas crackers.

Something For the Weekend 9 October 2010

Under a Fiver

2010 Sainsburys Taste the Difference Casablanca Sauvignon Blanc

The aromas of this new vintage sauvignon blanc from Errazuriz are piercingly fresh combining herbal fragrance with tropical undertones and appley flavours with a zingily refreshing, grapefruity aftertaste. £4.49, down from £5.99, until Tuesday, Sainsbury’s.

Under a Tenner

2009 The Co-operative Leyda Valley Sauvignon Blanc

An aromatic dry white from the Pacific-cooled Leyda Valley in Chile, whose herbal and gooseberry-tinged fragrance and flavours are enlivened by a tropical pink grapefruit zestiness and citrusy freshness. £6.49, The Co-operative, down from £7.99, until today.

Splash Out

2009 El Quintanal, Cillar de Silos, Ribera del Duero

Subtly stylish oak and the crisp acidity of the region’s high vineyards bring texture and freshness to this bright, youthful, strawberryish tempranillo from one of Ribera’s most forward-looking wineries. £10.99 (£8.79 in a mixed case), Oddbins.