Was it the prospect of the Dirty Dozen yapping at their heels that prompted The Bunch to pull out the stops at their autumn tasting a fortnight ago? Let me explain. The Dirty Dozen is a new grouping of some of the UK’s top independent wine importers, the Bunch an association that’s been going strong for a little while now. No-one’s suggesting that the Bunch has been resting on its laurels, far from it, but The Dirty Dozen is a new force in the land.

Choosing a name to reflect a dirt-under-the-fingernails approach (in the winemaking sense), The Dirty Dozen reflects a growing interest in distinctive wines of character in contrast to the brand-orientated fare churned out by the supermarkets. Largely specialising in specific regions or countries, what the twelve have in common is their focus on wines made with tlc. Typically, says Roberson for instance ‘ ‘we remain passionate advocates of wines that offer value, character and substance; We choose wines that we like – that speak of place and individuality from small artisanal producers’.

Last year Roberson won Decanter Magazine’s London Wine Merchant of the Year for wines such as the intensely lime zesty and minerally 2009 Marcel Deiss Riesling, £19.95, the smoky rich 2010 Domaine les Goubert Côtes du Rhône Blanc, £10.50, and the outstandingly complex and gamey 2002 Domaine Peyre Rose Coteaux du Languedoc, £46. One of the major differences between the Dirty Dozen and The Bunch, whose six members are totally focused on consumer retailing, the DD is an association that includes both retailers and suppliers to the trade too. Most of the latter will sell by the mixed case to consumers.

Barely known outside the trade, The Wine Barn for instance has established itself within the hotel and restaurant trade as a supplier of high quality, often dry, German wines. Over 11 years, its founder Iris Ellmann has built up an impressive portfolio, selling a host of excellent German rieslings, among them the wonderfully refreshingly dry 2009 Hans Wirsching Riesling Spätlese Iphofer Kronsberg, £24.75, in the trademark Franconian bocksbeutel, and introducing a raft of fine German pinot noirs such as the sweetly raspberryish and textured fresh 2009 Spätburgunder ‘Franz Anton’ from Franz Keller, £20.10.

With a focus on family-run estates in France, Portugal and Spain, Indigo Wine is another similar supplier. A terrific Spanish list includes, among others, the refreshingly tangy, bone dry El Maestro Sierra Fino Sherry, £14.95, Indigo, as well as the smoky-scented, stonefruit-flavoured 2009 Coto de Gomariz Blanc, Ribeiro, £14.50, The Sampler, and the intense richly concentrated and ultra-stylish 2009 4 Kilos, Mallorca, £31.95, The Sampler, Harvey Nichols.

Flint Wines is a relative newcomer specializing in high quality burgundy and including as few gems from the Rhône too and Oregon. Among its quality white burgundies, look for the classic, bone dry, mineral 2009 Domaine Bernard Defaix Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet, £18.50, and the spicy and strawberryish 2009 Cristom Vineyards Mount Jefferson Pinot Noir, £25.95.

H2Vin for its part, only two years old, is the brainchild of sommelier Matt Wilkin and the experienced Christian Honorez. Their portfolio includes superb burgundies such as the 2008 Domaine Moreau Naudet Chablis Vieilles Vignes, £15, and wonderfully savoury, mouthwatering 2007 Bruno Colin Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru Morgeot, £38.75. This may be the first you’ve heard of the Dirty Dozen but not, I suspect, the last. For full their contact details and specialisms, check out www.anthonyrosewine.com.

Something For the Weekend

Under £6

2011 Tiger Horse Old Vine Cinsault, Swartland, South Africa

Aromatically enticing and half way between a pinot noir and grenache, this Cape red has a punchy sweetness to the cherryish fruit and a firm grip of tannins on the aftertaste. £5.59, down from £8.49, Waitrose

Under a Tenner

2010 Tesco Finest Boranup Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon, Margaret River

A fresh nettle and spearmint quality and an engaging mix of passion fruit and tropical grapefruit zestiness make this typically shellfish-friendly Western Australia-meets-white-Bordeaux blend refreshingly zingy with a crisp dry aftertaste. £9.99, Tesco

Splash Out

2009 PSI, Peter Sisseck, Ribera del Duero

From the man behind Pingus, one of Spain’s trendiest cult wines, this pure tempranillo is rich in intense dark cherry and plum flavours, lightly spiced by oak and cut by a savoury freshness. £22.99, Corney & Barrow (corneyandbarrow.com).

Something for the Weekend

The Dirty Dozen are:

Astrum Wine Cellars

Imports 40-odd European wineries and focuses on the Iberian peninsula

Unit 7, Falcon Business Centre
14 Wandle Way
Mitcham Surry CR4 4FG
0203 328 4620
www.astrumwinecellars.com
sales@astrumwinecellars.com

Aubert & Mascoli

Specialises in artisanal French and Italian wines

67 Dean Street
London W1D 4QH
02077345399
www.aubertandmascoli.com
info@aubertandmascoli.com

Clark Foyster Wines

Broad spectrum of fine wines with a strong focus on Austria and Portugal

15 South Ealing Road
London W5 4QT
02088327470
www.clarkfoysterwines.com
sales@cfwines.co.uk

Dynamic Vines

Natural wines including biodynamic and organic wines

26 Fouberts Place
London W1F 7PP
020 7287 2179
www.dynamicvines.com
fredericgrappe@aol.com

Flint Wines

Specialises in fine Burgundy growers’ wines

38 De Laune Street
Kenningon
London SE17 3UR
020 7582 2500
www.flintwines.com
info@flintwines.com

FortyFive10

The focus is on top Italian wines

Unti 4, Glenville Mews
London SW18 4NJ
020 8875 1784
www.fortyfive10.com
info@fortyfive10.com

H2Vin

An exceptional portfolio of boutique wines

35 The Spinney
Epsom, Surry KT18 5QX
01737355765
www.h2vin
info@h2vin.co.uk

Indigo Wine

Family-run estates in Spain and France a strength

7 Beverstone Road
London SW2 5AL
02077338391
www.indigowine.com
info@indigowine.com

Raymond Reynolds

Single estate wines from Portugal

Calico Lane, Furness Vale
High Peak
SK23 7SW
01663 742230
www.winesfromportugal.com
info@raymondreynolds.co.uk

Roberson Wine

Top London retailer

348 Kensington High Street
London W14 8NS
020 7371 2121 /
020 7381 7870
www.robersonwine.com
enquiries@roberson.co.uk
sales@robersonfinewine.co.uk

The WineBarn

Fine German wines the specialism

Clump Farm Barn
Fairleigh Lane
Dummer
Hampshire RG25 2AF
01256391211
www.thewinebarn.co.uk
info@thewinebarn.co.uk

Vine Trail

Specialist importer of fine, artisanal French domaine wines

266 Hotwell Road
Hotwells
Bristol BS8 4NG
0117 921 1770
www.vinetrail.co.uk
enquiries@vinetrail.co.uk