The Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championships

POSTED ON 13/09/2014

The brainchild of champagne expert Tom Stevenson, the first Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championships were devised after he fell out with Decanter Magazine two years ago. For the inaugural competition at Plumpton College this year, he was joined by acknowledged world champagne specialist, Finnish Master of Wine, Essi Avellan and Tony Jordan, the Australian eminence grise behind the Yarra Valley’s Green point and other Moët et Chandon New World ventures.

Keen to show off the results of the results of a labour of love involving tasting 650 champagnes and sparkling wines over seven days (tough job, but someone has to do it, boo-boom!), Stevenson and Avellan held a dinner in London the weekend before last. With a variety of tasting courses (no meat involved), they introduced champagnes and sparkling wine trophies in a number of style categories, ranging from a relatively humble Spanish cava, the 2012 Freixenet Cuvé de Prestige Trépat (as yet unavailable UK), through two fizzes from Italy’s Franciacorta, an English sparkling wine as well as nine champagnes in the blanc de blancs, rosé, non-vintage, vintage, de luxe and magnum categories.

It was a substantial achievement by Ruinart to win both World Champion Blanc de Blancs for its elegant, crisply chiselled NV chardonnay and the deluxe award for its richly creamy, intense 2002 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs. The non-dosage fizz trophy, i.e. no sugar added, went to a superbly-crafted 2008 Mosnel Rosé Franciacorta, a sunny climate the recipe for a beautifully balanced style.

NV Rosé winner was an accomplished, raspberry ripple-like Charles Heidsieck Réserve while the fabulously winey (horrendously pricey) 2002 Roederer Cristal Rosé deservedly stole the Supreme World Champion crown. Underlining England’s growing fizz credentials, the surprise of the night was the Hattingley Valley Rosé a herby, ultra-tangy fizz that beat all-comers to become World Champion Vintage Rosé.

After Pommery Brut Royal’s success with its NV magnum and a gorgeously toasty Laurent Perrier Grand Siècle NV which took the Deluxe Magnum trophy, the second big surprise was that the Co-op’s wonderfully toasty 2004 Les Pionniers Champagne, £24.99, made by Charles and Piper Heidsieck, took the World Champion Vintage Blend title. Another surprise: a brilliant Franciacorta, the 2005 Ca’ del Bosco Cuvée Annamaria Clementi won World Champion Vintage Magnum trophy, while Dom Pérignon’s classy 1996 Oenothèque took World Champion Deluxe blend honours.

Now that the Champagne and Sparkling Wine Awards are up-and-running, could you come up with a snappier title? Promising a magnum of deluxe Champagne for a name he prefers, Tom Stevenson says: ‘something not flippant, funny or off-putting, but inclusive of both champagne and sparkling wines, and with a certain gravitas’. If you can, email me at anthony@anthonyrosewine.com. The full results appear in the next issue, 45, of The World of Fine Wine 2014.

Something for The WeekendSomething for The Weekend
Something for the Weekend 13 September 2014

Night In

2012 Frappato, Terre Siciliane

Frappato is a native Sicilian grape variety with a fragrant peppery whiff and delicately cherry-raspberry fruit quality that’s not a million miles from red Burgundy, but for an extra zing and rustic sweet tannins on the finish. £7.99, Marks & Spencer.

Dinner Party

2013 Rolf Binder Highness Eden Valley Riesling

In classically steely Eden Valley mould, this fine Aussie dry Riesling from Rolf Binder with its intense lime-scented aromas and delicately citrus-crisp, textured fruit finishes with zing and zest on a characterful, telltale ‘petrolly’ riesling note. £11.99, Waitrose.

Splash Out

2009 Rioja Reserva Selección Especial

Grown-up version of the reserva, this tempranillo-based blend leads to an elegant yet concentrated, rich mouthful of dark berry fruitiness moderated by a stylish touch of vanilla oak and balanced backbone of damson-like freshness. £21.95 - £25, Uncorked, slurp.co.uk, Majestic.

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