Burgundy on a Roll, Bordeaux a Rollercoaster

POSTED ON 04/01/2014

Burgundy is on a roll, Bordeaux a roller-coaster. In 2013, Bordeaux failed to deliver a good enough vintage to make it worth buying early. Next spring, that is, when the 2013 vintage is sold en primeur, or, as futures, before being bottled and delivered two years later. My crocodile tears are for the fact that Bordeaux had its fat years in the noughties, not least with great vintages of 2009 and 2010 and extravagant prices to match.

In the unlikely event that I’ll have the cash to splash cash on fine wine this year, it will be sooner rather than later because the new Burgundy vintage is one year behind. Come again? Yes, like a greyhound out of its trap, 2012 Burgundy goes on sale from next week at the numerous Burgundy specialist tastings in London. The number is growing along with the reputation of, and demand for, Burgundy.

I can’t be certain at this stage that 2012 is a vintage to buy, but word on the grapevine is that the vintage is good but small and demand will be high, putting pressure on prices, especially for big name small growers such as Fourrier, Cathiard , Grivot, de Montille, Dujac, Roumier, Ponsot, Lignier, Vougeraie, Leflaive and Lafon.

Although Burgundy is fragmented and needs some effort, it’s worth it in good vintages. The key is to watch out for names on the up such as Duroché, Humbert, Taupenot-Merme, Denis Mortet, Bernard Moreau, Sylvain Pataille, Confuron-Cotetidot, and look at lesser appellations like Marsannay, Fixin and Auxey-Duresses. If you’re keen, form an orderly queue for at least one of the tastings in London in the next couple of weeks. For specialists, check out http://www.anthonyrosewine.com/journal/2012/2/burgundy-2010-–-wines

Something for The WeekendSomething for The Weekend

Something for the Weekend 4 January 2014

Night In

Finest* Sauvignon Blanc Furmint, Slovenia

A distinctive dry Slovenian white combining sauvignon blanc with furmint, the Tokaji grape, this is an appetisingly spicy blend with a lively apple and pear juiciness finishing with a refreshingly dry zing. £5.99, down from £7.99, Tesco, until 22 January.

Dinner Party

2010 Malvirà Nebbiolo delle Langhe

This is an elegant red from Barolo country red whose floral, berry fruit fragrance lures you into a red with bright cherryish fruit, its texture softened by oak maturation while retaining the trademark freshness of the Alpine foothills. £11.99, Waitrose.

Splash Out

2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, La Bernadine

Liquorice spicy in aroma, this grenache/syrah/mourvèdre blend from Michel Chapoutier shows rich plum pudding fruitiness with a garrigue-herb, savoury edge that makes this powerful young wine as unputdownable as a page-turning novel. £23.27 - 27.73, Hermitage Cellars (01243 431002), welovefinewines.com, winedirect.co.uk.

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