Burgundy Bounty

According to Greenpeace, the wines of Burgundy are so badly threatened by rising temperatures that Meursault, Montrachet and Volnay could disappear forever. Only an ostrich would deny the reality of climate change, but in the case of the 2008 vintage appearing on the market this month, Burgundy’s growers must have wished for once that the climate had changed sooner rather than later. By and large, it was such a miserably cool, wet growing season that by as late as mid-September, even its most ardent admirers were writing the vintage off. But Burgundy has been the lucky region in the Noughties, and a harvest of potential discontent was saved, almost gloriously, by the Indian summer of the second half of September.

No burgundy is a necessity and it can be as expensive, but it isn’t subject to the unreasonable price hikes seen in Bordeaux. The UK also has a distinct advantage over the rest of the world when it comes to opportunities to buy not just good, but - a term that might seem oxymoronic - good value burgundy. We are fortunate in having a critical mass of intrepid independent specialists who go to taste the wines, and in January, Arctic conditions notwithstanding, bring home samples of the wines they believe in for press and trade tastings in January. We, the press, have to make snap judgments given that not all the wines are even bottled yet, but we aim to report as accurately as we can as to whether the growers and merchants are peddlers of hype.

To call it a miracle vintage, as some are doing, is perhaps to overegg the pudding. A surprise vintage is probably more accurate. It’s not generally so much about which commune did well, but which wine producer. The best growers, those who who didn’t panic by picking too early, and who’ve been meticulous in their vineyard management and winemaking, have made delicious wines, both in white and red burgundy. Yields were low, so an opulence comes through in the successful white wines. While the reds tend to lack flesh, there’s a seductive perfume and purity of red berry flavours in the best pinot noir-based reds, all with the freshness you’d expect from a cool vintage. The biggest reservation comes from a factor beyond the region’s control: the poor exchange rate that makes all European wines expensive.

Leaving aside Burgundy for the high rollers, and there are plenty of grand wines at premier cru level, what impressed me is that there are also good value wines at superior ‘house’ white and red burgundy level. If you’re looking for value in this vintage, my advice is to head for the whites wines of Jean-Paul Droin, and William Fèvre in Chablis, Hubert Lamy in Saint Aubin, Daniel Barraud in the Mâconnais and Bourgogne Blanc from class growers such as Jean-Philippe Fichet, Etienne Sauzet, Guy Roulot and Denis Mortet. Value reds are a tougher call, but I like the bright, spicy Givry 1er crus of François Lumpp.

Of the top quality, high-end white burgundies I have tasted to date, look to Philippe Colin, Moreau-Naudet, Fontaine-Gagnard, Roche de Bellène, Jean-Marc Boillot, Colin-Deleger and Paul Pernot. In the case of reds, Domaine Fourrier, Sylvain Cathiard, Jean Grivot and Mugneret-Gibourg are among the domaines that stand out. If you want to delve further into 2008, check out tasting notes, with merchant and price details at anthonyrosewine.com.

Something For the Weekend 23 January 2010

Under a Fiver

2009 Cambalala Chardonnay Colombard, Western Cape.

Benefiting from the freshness of the new vintage in South Africa, this is typically lively, affordable Cape blend, with its tropical undertones of guava, punches above its weight to make a refreshingly juicy everyday quaffer. £3.49, Aldi

Under a Tenner

2007 Villiera Brut Natural, Stellenbosch

Except for the price, I’m not convinced I could tell, tasting it blind, that this stylish and tangy South African blanc de blancs made from pure chardonnay, with its biscuity, honey-flecked mousse, wasn’t Champagne. Could you? £9.99, Marks & Spencer.

Splash Out

2008 Morgenhof Estate Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch

Made from old vine chenin blanc partly fermented in barrel, giving it a delicate smokiness, this is an exceptional Cape-meets-Vouvray dry white, rich in peachy flavours and framed by subtle toasty oak, finishing honeyed yet crisp. £10.99, Waitrose, waitrosewine.com

Burgundy 2008 - a supplement to today's piece in The Independent

On the evidence of the four tastings I have attended to date, and each day the wines seemed to taste just a little differently, harder one day, easier the next, this is clearly a good to very good vintage and worth buying where the wines fulfil the promise of the vintage. It’s not up there with the fabulous 2005, but there are enough good wines out there, whites especially, to make it worth putting a few cases away in your cellar for the medium-term.

These notes come with a caveat however. Firstly many of the wines are not yet finished . Some have been recently bottled, so may be suffering the after-effects others are cask samples, and still in the process of development. Cask samples may also be subject in some casers to bottle shock or oxidation, so the tasting notes are meant to give a snapshot of a moment in time.

Burgundy is hard to assess at the best of times, and some that look awful now may well be going through bottle sickness, while others that look great may not necessarily fulfil that promise once they are bottled. Sorry if all that sounds uncertain, but it’s only fair to state the case. Most of the wines will be shipped by Spring next year.

As for prices, please refer to the merchant’s offer where I haven’t included the price. There is a list of merchants at the end. The wines are in bond, which means that you pay the bulk of the price now, and then duty and VAT (one the total price plus duty) when the wines are delivered. Note that some like Howard Ripley price for six bottles, others for 12. Generally prices are similar to last year although a few have gone down a little. The problem is more the Euro, which has remained stronger against the pound that many people were predicting this time last year.

I have not written notes up on all the wines I tasted. Some were just not interesting enough to write about. Others I couldn’t really get a handle on, although I have put a smattering of those up on the site. If the order looks a little haphazard, it’s because I’ve followed the merchants’ order and some put whites before reds, others arrange their tasting by producer. If you're looking for a particular wine or producer, type the name into the keyword box.

Quite a few of the wines overlap across wine merchants, so you’ll find Hubert Lamy at Lea & Sandeman and Berry Bros, Daniel Barraud at Lea & Sandeman and Howard Ripley, Mugneret-Gibourg at Lea & Sandeman and Berry Bros, Jean-Philippe Fichet at Goedhuis and Berry Bros., and so on. In those cases, it’s worth comparing prices.

Please also note that these notes are by no means complete. The Wine Gang (www.thewinegang.com) will also be doing a 2008 Burgundy report in its February issue with a raft of additional wines, many of them the choicest cuts from the 2008 vintage, along with full tasting notes and scores.

TASTING NOTES: GOEDHUIS & CO.

Chablis 1er cru Vaillons, Jean-Paul Droin

Lovely nose, intense, greeny yellow hue, appley fruit, well-made, intense fruit flavours, fine blade of acidity, good minerality, crisp finish. 90

Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, Jean-Paul Droin

Fine delicate nose, lovely fruit intensity, appley, rich, with good concentration and intensity and a creamy texture refreshed by very nice zippy acidity. 90

Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots, Jean-Paul Droin

Fine nose, fresh and intense, lovely ripe, appley fruit, very intense, with good creaminess of texture, fine blade of acidity, and dry , elegant minerality; overall finely poised and irresistibly delicious. 92+

Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, Jean-Paul Droin

Lovely intense and complex nose, a touch of oak on the nose and palate but barely perceptible and redeemed by classic chablis flavours of apple and stonefruit and a lovely intensity and balance, finishing with fine mineral streak, one that should age well for 10 years plus. 93

Bourgogne Blanc, Denis Mortet

A flattering touch of smoky oak, good full-flavoured ripe chardonnay fruitiness, clean blade of acidity, nicely balanced, buttery and fresh with an unusual degree / level of intensity for straight Bourgogne Blanc. 88

Nuits St Georges Blanc, Gerbotte, Domaine d l'Arlot

Fair, nice rich apple and pear fruit. Good acid. 88+

Nuits St Georges Blanc, 1er cru, Clos de l'Arlot.

Pungent smoky oak, very New World in style, classy oak, with polished flavours and texures and nice opulent ripe fruit quality, with a tad too much oak at this stage but possibly good for the long haul as long as that oak integrates. 89+

Rully 1er cru, Maison Roche de Bellène

Appealing fresh chardonnay, clean, well-made, elegantly dry with nice texture and appley flavour and good cleansing acidity. 87+

Puligny Montrachet 1er cru Les Referts, Maison Roche de Bellène

Very nice touch of oak on the nose, stylish barrel-fermented dry white with attractive flavours, crisp acidity and mineral streak with good appley bite and poised oak treatment, overall very well-crafted and full-flavoured. 91

Rully 1er cru Meix Cadot, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Good fresh nose, attractive fruit, juicy apple and pear, very nice full flavours, well-crafted white burgundy, with some richness and pristine fruit quality, good fresh acidity and overall excellent balance. 88+

Montagny 1er cru Le Vieux Château, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Good fresh chardonnay nose, nicely zippy fresh apple and pear fruitiness, good chardonnay flavours and texture, very nice fresh cleansing acidity and good overall balance. 88

Puligny Montrachet, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Fine, subtle nose, clean and fresh, lovely fruit quality here, stonefruit, intense with fine texture , lively, juicy fresh acidity, and excellent overall balance; very well-crafted, subtly poised Puligny for short to medium-term drinking. 90

Puligny Montrachet Referts, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Youtfhul greeny gold in colour, fine subtle nose, fresh spritz, lovely full, intense flavours, textured and rich with a touch of spicy oak from barrel-fermentation, good leesy, textured fruit and a fine blade of balancing acidity. 92

Puligny Montrachet La Garenne, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Greeny gold hue, good classic Puligny nose, fresh, inviting and delicately nutty from oak fermentation, there's a fresh spritz on the tongue and fine, intense chardonnay fruit flavours underscored by crisp, zippy acidity and a mineral dry streak. 92+

Puligny Montrachet Combettes, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Greeny gold, fine intense nose, very fresh, lovely fruit richness here with touch of delicate nut and spice of oak fermentation, a lovely poise and delicacy of fruit with beautifully integrated oak and fine acidity topped off by a mineral streak on the finish. 93

Puligny Montrachet Sous le Puits, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Fine nose, classic Puligny, lovely delicacy of flavour and texture thanks to finely balanced appley chardonnay fruit and deliciously juicy acidity underscored by subtle leesy and oak crafted characters, all beautifully poised and balanced. 93+

Bâtard Montrachet, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Greeny yellow, nutty nose, gorgeously seductive rich and concentrated fruit that's nutty and leesy and yet underscored by a freshness and minerality that keeps the entire enterprise beautifully delicately balanced. Deceptively weighty and intense. 95

Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet

Nice nose, and freshness of fruit, good dry white Burgundy with a little more intensity and concentration of appley fruitiness than the basic Bourgogne, which is also good, finishing with fine, zippy, fresh acidity and very juicy. 88+

Meursault, Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet

Greeny yellow hue, good classic Meursault nose, lovely ripe fruit, appley and nutty with good intensity of flavour, very nice weight and texture and freshness of fruit and acidity; classic Meursault at a decent price. 90

Meursault Gruyaches, Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet

Green yellow, fine fresh classic Meurault nose, very nice fruit opulence and texture bisected by a refreshing streak of acidity and underscored by well-crafted, subtle leesy, nutty characters in a finely balanced framework. 91

Meursault Chevalières, Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet

Greeny yellow, very fresh, lovely Puligny nose, nutty rich and opulent appley fruit quality, really full-flavoured and rich, finely textured ripeness of fruit with a fine balance of fresh acidity and mineral streak; very well-crafted and absolutely delicious. 93

Meursault Tesson, Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet

Greeny yellow hue, fine nose, lovely intense nuttiness combined with aromatic fruit quality; delicious fruit opulence and texture on the palate with lovely stonefruit and apple quality, fine fresh juiciness and good balancing acidity; a very voluptuous, beguiling, drinkable quality to the fruit. 93

Meursault Genevrières, Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet

Greeny yellow, intense fresh nose with fine nuttiness, lovely intense nutty fruit quality with delicious fruit flavours and concentration, spicy and intense stonefruit, fine texture and very good balancing juicy acidity; all with a real classic sense of Meursault place. 94

Puligny Montrachet 1er cru Referts, Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet

Greeny gold, intense nutty concentrated fruit richness, nutty underling intensity, fine blade of acidity and mineral streak, tasty ripe apple fruit quality, almost creamy texture, with good weight and flavour, possibly not quite together yet. Jury out. 91?

Domaine Francois Jobard

Bourgogne Blanc. Domaine Francois Jobard

Very nice nose, touch of oak? good clean, crisp, appley flavours, zippy fresh acidity, quite citrusy and clean, de-classified Meursault? 88+

Meursault En La Barre, Domaine Francois Jobard

Greeny yellow in colour, touch of nutty oak on the nose, quite lean angular style, minerally crisp acidity. 89+

Puligny Montrachet, Domaine Etienne Sauzet

Greeny yellow, fine classic Puligny nose, lovely fruit, beautifully defined nutty and appley fruit flavours, very juicy with a seductively opulent texture and flavour and fine blade of balancing acidity. 90+

Puligny Montrachet 1er cru Champ Gain, Domaine Etienne Sauzet

Fine, intense appley nose, lovely fruit quality, seductively ripe and juicy, very drinkable with subtle undertones of lees and nutty oak, and beautifully balanced, texture fruit overall, minerality showing through. 93

Puligny Montrachet 1er cru Clos de la Garenne, Domaine Etienne Sauzet

Greeny yellow hue, fresh aromas with subtle apple and nutty undertones, lovely juicy seductive fruit quality, a real pleasure to drink, hedonistic, balanced, poised, with no hard or rough edges, just the fruit and nothing but the fruit, only with a degree of complexity from the subtle added elements of lees and nutty oak in a framework of fresh acidity and minerality. 94

Chassagne Montrachet En Remilly, Domaine Michel Colin-Deleger

Good fresh nose, quite leesy, good full-flavoured, leesy-nutty fruit quality, classic Chassagne, with a fine blade of fresh acidity and minerality on the finish. 91

Puligny Montrachet 1er cru Les Demoiselles, Domaine Michel Colin-Deleger

Greeny yellow hue, fine fresh nose, refreshing spritz, good leesy / nutty fruit quality, well-crafted and intense, subtle textures and flavours in this intense young dry white Burgundy, still quite tight and youthful on the finish; expensive but serious. 93+

St.Aubin 1er cru En Remilly, Domaine Marc Colin

Lovely and freshness, good juicy crisp young chardonnay, attractively crafted, good fresh acidity. 88+

St.Aubin 1er cru Sentier du Clou, Domaine Marc Colin

Ditto aromas and equally, a juicy crisp youthful chardonnay, very attractively crafted, with a similar spine of crisp acidity. 88+

St.Aubin 1er cru Charmois., Domaine Paul Pillot

Fresh aromatic quality, fine lees-derived fruit quality, well-crafted, juicy, full-flavoured and dry, very well-made; good value dry white Burgundy from a lesser-known area. 88+

Morey St Denis Clos Solon Vieille Vigne, Domaine Fourrier

Lovely fresh raspberry pinot nose, deliciously bright, ripe sweet raspberry fruit bisected by fresh acidity with juicy supple tannins; very nice juicy classic Côte de Nuits pinot. Excellent. 89+

Gevrey Chambertin Vieille Vigne, Domaine Fourrier

Good classic pinot aromas, pleasantly juicy and raspberryish with good thirstquenching fresh acidity albeit a tad on the lean side but very nice fruit purity. 89

Chambolle Musigny Vieille Vigne, Domaine Fourrier

Fine fresh sweet cherryish pinot nose, lovely juicy supple pinot fruit in mulberry spectrum of juiciness with a plum sweetness in the middle and very fresh acidity, nicely complemented by touch of rounding oak. 89++

Vougeot 1er cru Petits Vougeout Vieille Vigne, Domaine Fourrier

Darker, firmer structured but juicy with good acidity. 88+

Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru Les Cherbaudes Vieille Vigne, Domaine Fourrier

Bright youthful ruby, good fresh strawberry pinot aromatics, bright fruit, juicy ripe red berry fruit quality, supple, juicy tannins, delicate touch of oak, juicy acidity and overall very well-balanced, lovely fresh pinot fruit quality. 90+

Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru Champeaux, Vieille Vigne, Domaine Fourrier

Intense, deep-hued but bright cherryish hue, dark fruits on the palate, quite rich, firmer structured, fresh nip of mulberry and loganberry-like fruit. 89

Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru Combe aux Moines Vieille Vigne, Domaine Fourrier

Bright colour, aromatic if a tad closed at this stage, lovely pure raspberry pinot fruit, very supple tannins, pristine pinot purity with fine blade of acidity and very nicely judged oak just adding a rounding textural element. Excellent. 92+

Griottes Chambertin Grand Cru Vieille Vigne, Domaine Fourrier

Fine colour, lovely sweet ripe cherryish nose, delicious cherry and mulberry fruit flavours, intense and pure fruit quality, lovely delicacy and balance behind the richness of fruit, a charmingly seductive grand cru with intense flavour and power. 95

Marsannay, Les Longeroies., Domaine Denis Mortet

Deep coloured, quite oaky, concentrated and rich, but a tad overoaked for my liking, maybe needing time to settle down and integrate. 87

Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays

Ditto only with a little more concentration, spice and richness, always identifiable with its spicy cinnamony character, nice fruit richness and quite deceptively firm structure with good acidity and supple tannins, nicely shaded oak; very much a style that you like or don't. I think I'm in between: I'd happily drink yours but I wouldn't go out of my way to buy it. 91

Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod

Pleasantly juicy, tad muddy, ordinaire. 86

Chambolle Musigny, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod

Quite firm and rather hard-going, lacking in sweetness, demanding stuff, why am I not liking this more?. 87

Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine Hudelot Noellat

Nice bright ruby hue, subdued nose, a tad rustic, trying hard. Quite juicy , tad angular and lean, lacking fruit ultimately. 86

Vosne Romanee, Domaine Hudelot Noellat

Pleasantly strawberryish nose and fruit, quite juicy and ripe, fair pinot fruit ,a tad on the sturdy and rustic side, if honest (it, not me). 87

Nuits St Georges, Bas de Combes, Domaine Hudelot Noellat

Subdued on the nose, slightly turgid and rustic fruit, some pinot but lacking in charm and the joy that good pinot should be bringing with rather lean fruit character and distinctly chunky tannins. 87

Nuits St Georges, 1er cru Les Murgers, Domaine Hudelot Noellat

Better, although while still a little subdued on the nose, there’s more cherry fruit here. 88

Vosne Romanee, 1er cru Les Suchots, Domaine Hudelot Noellat

Quite good if unexciting. 88

Vosne Romanée, 1er cru, Beaumonts, Domaine Hudelot Noellat

Deeper richer colour, more aromatic, some nice sweet pinot fruit here, still a tad rustic but better with some richness and spice; is this very traditional? Sorry but I’m not finding it inspirational. Maybe a samples issue? 88+

Nuits St Georges, Lavières, Domaine Jean Grivot

Bright colour, good raspberryish pinot aromas, a tad lean, but nice red berry fruit pinot purity of aroma and flavour, good fresh acidity and juiciness, if lacking a little bit of richness. 89

Vosne Romanée 1er cru, Rouges, Domaine Jean Grivot

Good bright colour, aptly named, slightly subdued, fresh spritz, not totally resolved at this stage, rather odd, with some quite rustic tannins and lean acidity. Sample issue? 88?

Vosne Romanée 1er cru, Boudots, Domaine Jean Grivot

Good colour, dark berry fruits, spice, fine flavoured mulberry and raspberry, quite firm-structured, serious pinot, with fine textural quality, very well-made with fruit, sinewy texture and firm backbone of tannin and acidity, serious pinot for medium to longer haul. 92

Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot

Deep coloured and bright, subtle perfume, rich fruit concentration, dark berry fruits, intense, sinewy, serious with firm structure of tannins and acidity, but a fine textural fruit quality that's overall very well balanced. Real terroir pinot, not for the masses, or me probably, not at these prices anyway, and given that it’s quite demanding in its style and character. 93

Vosne Romanée, Suchots, Domaine Jean Grivot

Deeply hued and bright, spritz to it, rather strange, concentrated and sinewy again in serious Grivot style, but plays at the borders between pleasure and seriousness. Sample issue? 90+?

Echézeaux Grand Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot

Deep coloured, intense aromatic quality, dark loganberry and black cherry-like fruitiness, concentrated, rich, sinewy and serious, with a minerality that makes it lively and fresh and supple tannins behind the seriousness of purpose; a well-structured and intense pinot with fine acidity and balance that should go on for a long time yet. 93+

Richebourg Grand Cru.

Intense depth of bright dark ruby, lovely fine spicy dark berry frits quality; very spicy on the palate, rich and concentrated pinot in dark berry fruit mode, very supple tannins and a fine blade of fresh acidity cutting through the richness, lovely fruit, balance and terroir minerality. Sex in a bottle. 95

Volnay Réserve Spéciale, Maison Roche de Bellène

Fragrant youthful cherryish aromas and fruit. Touch of the Beaujolais about it (no, not gamay), nicely juicy. Dark fruits. Quite firm and rustic on finish. 88

Gevrey Chambertin Les Champeaux, Maison Roche de Bellène

Very dark colour, very serious extracted pinot , but is it pinot?/ Odd. Slightly oxidised. Sample issue?

Pommard Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Joseph Voillot

Pleasant, fair, a tad rustic, quite juicy, good acidity. 88

Volnay Champans, Domaine Joseph Voillot

Dark colour, darker nose and fruit, this doesn't work as well; it's more plummy and blackberry-like, quite eye-watering acidity. And maybe sample a tad oxidized? 88

Pommard 1er cru Pézerolles, Domaine Joseph Voillot

Good pinot fragrance, appealing delicate sweet pinot fruit, juicy, well-structured, intense, with nice delicacy of texture and flavour, very well-made. 90+

Pommard 1er cru Rugiens, Domaine Joseph Voillot

Fine fragrance of pinot noir, lovely seductive juicy pinot noir fruit in dark cherry and mulberry vein, good fresh acidity, fine-boned structure, supple tannin juiciness, well-done. 90+

TASTING NOTES: LEA & SANDEMAN

Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaumes, Domaine Adhémar et Francis Boudin

Good fresh sourdough and apple aromas, nicely textured rich fruit, very dry, intense, fine fresh acidity, mineral streak. 90

Chablis 1er Cru Homme Mort, Domaine Adhémar et Francis Boudin

Very good fresh and precise aromatic quality, fine bone dry fruit with nicely textured richness and intensity, good appley bite on the finish, and mineral streak. 90+

Petit Chablis Domaine Moreau-Naudet

Pleasantly fresh and juicy apple and pear fruit with crisp bite and nice fresh acidity, well-made, very Chablis-like in fact. 87

Chablis 1er Cru Montmains Domaine Moreau-Naudet

Fresh and precise nose, good intense pure fruit quality, subtle oak, nice bone dry quality, with textured creamy richness, and mineral dry finish. 90+

Chablis 1er Cru Forêts Domaine Moreau-Naudet

Good fresh nose, fresh spritz, juicy ripe apple and pear-like fruitiness, subtle oak, nice textural quality, finishing bone dry, clean and crisp, overall a very nice opulent richness here, subtle use of oak, albeit with that Chablis minerality. 90++

Chablis Grand Cru Valmur Domaine Moreau-Naudet

Fine nose, lots of richness and opulence here with fresh pear-like characters, subtle oak, good concentration, and real opulence balanced by lovely fresh acidity with that now familiar mineral streak; very ageworthy. 92

Domaine Daniel Barraud Mâcon Vergisson La Roche (Non Filtré).

Really good nose, very nice juicy and full-flavoured chardonnay, stonefruit, almost touch of honey and nut here, grapefruity acidity, well-crafted. 89

Domaine Daniel Barraud Pouilly Fuissé VV En Buland.

Good subtle nutty fruit nose, quite tight and mineral at this stage, fine blade of acidity and full-flavoured fruit, nice mineral streak with nutty dry finish, should age well. 91

Montagny 1er Cru Jean-Marc Boillot.

Pleasant enough and quite juicy, pressed apples finish 87

Rully 1er Cru La Pucelle, Domaine Paul Jacqueson .

Nice nose and fruit, well-made, subtle touch of oak, some good flavour intensity and juicy chardonnay fruit flavours, rich yet nicely dry, good value. 88+

Saint Aubin Princée, Domaine Hubert Lamy

Very nice fresh leesy / toasty aromas, good ripe chardonnay fruit flavours tempered by a crafted leesy richness of fruit with good texure and cleansing acidity providing overall balance. 89+

Saint Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière Domaine Hubert Lamy

Good fresh leesy aromaric quality, very nice chardonnay fruit quality, crafted and complex with leesy texture, dry and elegant fruit, well-worked, very good quality. 90+

Saint Aubin 1er Cru Rémilly Domaine Hubert Lamy

Fresh, complex leesy –toasty, crafted aromas and ditto on palate with perhaps a shade more intensity and concentration of crystal clear chardonnay fruitiness on the palate framed by subtle oak, texture and leesy and good crisp acidity with a nice bone dry elegant finish. 91

Chassagne Montrachet Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot .

A tad simple, nice ripeness. 88+

Puligny Montrachet, Noyers Brets, Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot.

Some attractive complexity, nice leesy, creamy texture and richness of apple and pear fruit, good complexity and richness, well-made, intense fruit and complexity. 90

Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Vergers Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot . Good, well-worked. 90

Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Champgains, Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Complex, leesy, nice opulent chardonnay flavours and textures, good leesy quality and nuttiness, quite tight, rich, good concentration of fruit and intensity of flavour, nicely balanced. 90+

Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot, Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Fin nose, fresh and complex, very nice ripe richness of chardonnay fruit, well-worked, juicy and voluptuous, with a nutty / leesy quality in the background. 90+

Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Fairandes Domaine Laurent Pillot

Good quality fruit, seductively opulent and ripe, almost Meursault-like with quite some power and concentration, with good cleansing acidity too, well-crafted and complex. 91+

Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes, Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
Very well done, complex, opulent richness to it, complex with good acidity and concentration of chardonnay fruit, still youthful and tight, needing time to open up. 91+

Meursault 1er Cru Caillerets, Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Nice nose, good rich and concentrated fruit, very nice fruit richness, with leesy underlying characters, subtle oak and good fresh acidity. 90+

Meursault, Domaine Henri Germain.

Appley nose, a tad disjointed at this stage and looser after the Pillots. 88

Savigny-Les-Beaune Blanc, Domaine Henri Boillot.

Well-made slightly rustic chardonnay with leesy quality and quite high grapefruity acidity. 88

Puligny Montrachet Champs Canet, Domaine Henri Boillot

Lovely complex nose, ripe chardonnay fruit to the point of opulence, fresh and peachy, this is opulent, almost voluptuous chardonnay with fine stonefruit flavours and juicy acidity underscored by a crafted leesy quality adding texture, fresh acidity and richness to a very well-balanced dry white with a mineral streak on a rousing finale . 93+

Givry 1er Cru à Vigne Rouge Domaine François Lumpp

Bright cherry hue, good expressive fresh cherryish pinot, really nice juicy red berry fruits on the palate, lovely perfume, seductive berry fruit freshness, juicy nubile tannins and cleansing fresh acidity; this would make a superior house burgundy. 89+

Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Lavières, Domaine Chandon de Briailles

Pale hue, curiously spicy / incensey, Lambrays-like aromas, hints of cinnamon and sandalwood; rather attractive sweet spicy pinot quality with juicy strawberry fruit flavours and supple tannins framed by good acidity and overall balance, slightly rustic finish. 88

Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru Île de Vergelesses, Domaine Chandon de Briailles

Similarly lightish hue and cinnamon-spicy nose although more depth to the aroamtic quality and richness of strawberry pinot fruit on the palate, with good balancing tnnins and acidity; well-made. 89+

Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Lavières, Domaine Henri Boillot

Stinky, extracted, tight, not very attractive; were they on holiday when this was made? Let’s hope it was a bad sample and not the wine. 79

Volnay 1er Cru Chevrets, Domaine Henri Boillot

Good dark red fruits, mulberry and loganberry pinot, classic pinot with fine juicy red berry fruit quality, supple tannins and elegant fresh acidity bringing an overall balance and texture; well-made; 90

Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Domaine Henri Boillot

Deepish cherry hue, odd nose, spritzy palate, cherry and raspberry pinot, a tad extracted but good pure pinot character and nice subtle oak framing with good fresh acidity. Sample maybe a tad unbalanced. 89?

Auxey Duresses Domaine Comte Armand

Bright hued ruby, pleasantly fresh and juicy red fruits quality, a tad on the lean side fruitwise but nice pure well-meaning pinot fruitiness in simple mode. 88

Auxey Duresses 1er Cru Domaine Comte Armand

Good bright cherry hue, nice red fruits pinot noir, juicy, nubile refreshing nip of acidity to the raspberryish fruit quality supple tannins and good overall balance; well-made, possibly a tad on the lean and austere side, but some might call that elegance. 88+

Pommard, Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

Bright colour, spicy cinnamon / earthy nose, quite extracted, chunky and rough on the palate, but at the same time pure and honest pinot, albeit rather brutish but in its way quite attractive, although I wouldn't rush out to buy it with this degree of rusticity. 88

Pommard 1er Cru Arvelets, Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

This has a similarly spicy earth quality on the nose and is equally rustic with chunky tannins and firm astringency, not really what pinot is about if you like its charm but has a certain earthy (terroir?) honesty. 88

Gevrey Chambertin, Domaine Thierry Mortet

Good bright cherryish ruby hue, very nice fresh red fruits nose, nicely perfumed, good depth of strawberry and raspberry pinot fruit richness, very well-crafted with a lovely pristine fruit purity, good subtle touch of lightly spiced oak and supple tannins yet firm bitey grip on the finish. 90

Chambolle Musigny, Domaine Thierry Mortet

Bright ruby, nicely aromatic, sweetish almost opulent with some astringency, but attractive pure raspberryish pinot fruit quality with supple tannins, good acidity and a certain spiciness, albeit a tad rustic and chunky on the finish, but a very good example of an invitingly food-friendly village Chambolle, pinot seduction at its best at this level. 91+

Gevrey Chambertin Vigne Belle, Domaine Thierry Mortet

A tad oaky on nose and palate, showing a little disjointed at this stage, with quite extracted chunky tannins on the finish. Sample? 88?

Nuits Saint Georges Charmotte, Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Pale bright pinot, fair nose, slightly odd flavours, is it the oak? Something a bit strange here, and chunky finish. Sample?

Vosne Romanée Aux Réas, Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Good bright ruby, nicely perfumed, good intense red berry fruit pinot aromas, fine concentration and fine-boned structure, very elegant, cherry fruity pinot, intense, elegant, lovely succulent fruit quality and balance; very pure fruit quality. 92

Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges Domaine Thibault

Good intense fresh red berry fruit pinot perfume, spritz on palate, good concentration and raspberry jam-like opulence framed by subtle oak, fresh acidity and a slight astringency that gives it life and freshness. 91

Richebourg Grand Cru Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Deep colour, serious pinot, quite chunky and powerful with a degree of astringency that makes it tight and difficult to appreciate at this stage. Not sure where this is going. ?

Beaune Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Cherryish nose, very nice juicy sweet pinot fruitiness, voluptuously juicy and fresh with a lovely seductively juicy sweet pinot noir fruit quality. 90

Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Fourneaux, Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Good colour, fresh spritiz And slightly gassy, good pure pinot fruit quality, dark berry fruits concentration and richness, quite firm and well-structured with good acidity. 89+?

Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Nice sweet pinot fruit concentration on mid-palate, good supple tannins, lovely purity of pristine dark berry fruits with very juicy acidity and good overall balance in mulberry / loganberry pinot mould, subtle oak, a finesse and delicacy belied by deceptively firm structure and backbone. 92

Volnay1er Cru Chevrets, Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Dark colour, slight spritz, good perfume, quite chunky fruit. With some astringency, not giving immediate pleasure but may take time. 89

Pommard 1er Cru Fremiers Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Dark colour, dark berry fruits aromas, quite firm structured, backbone, astringency, good fresh acidity and minerality, supple tannins, well-made, nice sweet mulberry fruits middle; quite serious, grows on you. 91

Pommard 1er Cru Chanlins Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Very dark colour, good intense sweet fruit concentration and richness, firm structured and intense dark fruits quality, serious and needing time. 90+?

Morey St Denis 1er cru, Clos des Lambrays,

Classic Lambrays spice and richness, very well done if you like the style which lots of people do; I'm less enthusiastic although there's no denying the quality of fruit and the character. 90

Clos Vougeot, Confuron Cotetidot

Bright colour, nice cardamom spicy pinot, a tad rooty and earthy, quite juicy and sweet, fresh, attractive red fruits character, nice supple tannin and juicy fruit quality. 89

Vosne Romanée Les Suchots, Confuron Cotetidot

Bright colour, aromatic and fresh, slight spritz, attractive sweet red fruits purity, nicely oaked, well-made, juicy and bright red fruited pinot quality, supple tannins, a touch of astringency adding freshness and balance, albeit a tad chunky on finish. 90?

Chambolle Musigny, Confuron Cotetidot

Quite dark in colour, fine mulberry / loganberry / blackberry perfume, lovely dark berry fruit richness, spices and concentration, this is delicious pinot noir, with an unusually firm grip of tannin and fresh acidity., but a lovely mulberry fruit quality whose freshness and backbone suggests that it will improve with a few years cellaring; smart for as village red. 90+

TASTING NOTES: HOWARD RIPLEY

Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Philippe Colin. £54

Fine fresh nose, good juicy ripe rich and full-flavoured chardonnay fruitiness, clean refreshingly crisp acidity, nicely balanced, finishing dry. 88

Domaine Daniel Barraud Pouilly Fuissé La Roche. £99

Fresh , attractive aromatic quality, very nice buttery chardonnay richness with nutty undertones , good citrusy fresh acidity and overall powerfully flavoured and very nicely balanced. 90

Domaine Daniel Barraud Pouilly Fuissé Vieilles Vignes La Verchère. £84

Fine nose, clean, fresh, nutty, very full-flavoured with lovely nutty richness of fruit, good intensity of flavour, power and balancing acidity; very well-crafted fruit quality and a mineral aftertaste. 91+

Chablis1er cru, Vaillons, Domaine William Fèvre. £98

Fine fresh nose, very attractive chardonnay fruit flavours, a nice lean streak of lemony acidity with some pear fruit richness and good mineral finish; overall very well-balanced, almost drinkable now. 90

Chablis 1er cru, Vaillons, Domaine Louis Michel. £69

Fresh enticing nose, good ripe, rich fruit concentration fine intensity of flavour with minerally dry characters nicely complementing the richness of appley fruit and a spine of fresh citrusy acidity; should age very well for up to seven years. 90

Chablis grand cru, Vaudésir, Domaine Louis Michel. £126

Fine nose, quite interesting, with an almost sauvignon herbal note initially, followed by a lean, taut quality of chardonnay fruit on the palate; very pure in its fruit profile with a flinty mineral finish. 91

Chablis Grand Cru, Vaudésir, Domaine William Fèvre £195

Fine intense nose, very good opulent concentrated chardonnay fruit with a stony underlay and a fine fresh spine of acidity; taut, youthful and finely balanced with a mineral streak; needs five years and could go on for 10+. 91

Puligny Montrachet, Domaine Paul Pernot. £111

Nice rich leesy aromatic quality, good intense and concentrated rich fruit, very nice chardonnay opulence, well-worked with a nutty / leesy character and subtle oak, topped off by a fine blade of acidity and dry minerality. 91

Chassagne Montrachet, Domaine Vincent & François Jouard. £90

Fine nose, very appealing, lovely classic Chassagne fruit, with good flavour intensity, subtle touch of nutty oak and underlying lees, and a really nice balance of opulence and freshness; very well-crafted. 91

Puligny Montrachet1er cru, Les Folatières, Domaine Paul Pernot. £192

Very nice nose, leesy, intense and complex, fine richness of chardonnay fruit with good worked nutty / leesy characters and a refreshing streak of acidity in a subtle framework of oak; works well. 91

Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru, Morgeot, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Vincent & François Jouard. £144

Nice fresh nutty nose, juicy and taut at the same time, this is well-made, nutty and leesy with a lean mineral streak, quite complex, and finishing elegantly dry. 90+

Chassagne Montrachet, 1er cru, Les Vergers, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard. £153

Good colour, fine nutty nose, very good ripe, opulent and intense chardonnay fruit with very well-worked, complex leesy characters, subtle oak, and a crisp tropical citrusy acidity, finishing dry with a good mineral streak. 92+

Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru, Les Chaumées, Domaine Philippe Colin. £186

Ditto fine nose, fresh, complex, subtle, leesy, typical Chassagne, lovely taut, youtfhul chardonay underscored by a fine citrusy streak of acidity, good intense flavours and finishing elegantly dry and mineral. Also fine quality taut chardonnay fruit, good intense apple and limey flavours, crisp acidity, elegantly dry. 92+

Criots Bâtard Montrachet Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, £438

Fine nose, complex, intense, lovely concentrated fruit richness and intensity, it's powerful and opulent with a slight smokiness and good nutty flavours underscored by a fine streak of minerally acidity. 93

Auxey Duresses 1er cru, Domaine Comte Armand, £96

Deep coloured, quite extracted dark berry fruit, nice supple tannins, juicy fruit, touch of oak, quite good if slightly subdued on the perfume front, although may emerge as time goes by. 88

Volnay, Domaine Comte Armand, £96

Nice fresh berry fruit perfume, touch of spicy oak, some good raspberry fruit richness on the palate which is quite firm and fresh and made in a delicate style with nice pure pinot fruit and supple tannins, nicely juicy and well put together. 89

Vosne Romanée, La Combe Brûlée, Domaine Bruno Clavelier, £180

Nice fresh raspberryish nose, a tad on the lean side but good pinot noir fruit purity and juiciness, well-made with a delicate framework of oak, tannins and acidity and an appealing profile overall. 89+

Nuits St Georges, Domaine Robert Arnoux, £122

Good colour, nice strawberryish aromas, pleasant strawberryish pinot fruit quality, with a touch of astringency, but quite supple tannins; nice juicy red berry fruits quality. 89

Vosne Romanée, Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg, £144

Good colour, attractive raspberry fragrance, very nice delicate raspberry fruit quality on the palate, juicy sweetness and pure pinot noir framed by subtle oak and gentle tannins, with a lean streak of refreshing acidity giving it life. 90

Nuits St Georges 1er cru, Les Chaignots, Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg, £198

Pleasant fresh primary berry fruit aromas, well-made, pure juicy raspberry and redcurrant pinot with an almost cranberry-like tangy freshness, supple tannins and good backbone; well-made; quite concentrated and rich, good fruit quality. Premier cru yes, but shows what can be done in a challenging vintage. 92

Rousseau Charmes Chambertin.

Fine nose, lovely berry fruit richness, concentration and purity of flavour, delicate, juicy with super supple tannins and fresh acidity, a raspberry jam-like sweet note but still incredibly fresh and mineral, leaving you satisfied. This is lovely pinot at its delicate, expressive best. 94

TASTING NOTES: BERRY BROS. & RUDD

Viré-Clessé, Dominique Lafon. £138.00

Good intense fruit quality, nice richness, leesy sub-notes, juicy acidity and fine balance, very juicy and full-flavoured and yet there’s something a bit dirty here however? Touch of cork maybe? 85?

Mâcon-La Roche Vineuse, Vieilles Vignes, Olivier Merlin. £111.00

Fine buttery nose, very nice full-flavoured buttery chardonnay, classic Mâconnais with creamy richness and fresh acidity. 89

Pouilly-Fuissé, Clos des Quarts, Olivier Merlin. £192.00

Very nice touch of toasty, oak almost coconutty, lots of flavour, very delicious with flattering nutty oak and less, very Pouilly Fuissé in style, and lovely juicy fresh acidity, very mineral. 91

Pouilly-Vinzelles, Les Quarts, Domaine de la Soufrandière , Bret Brothers. £198.00

Fine nose, lovely fruit, very juicy, well-integrated oak with nice fresh spine of acidity, and fine overall balance. 89+

Chassagne-Montrachet, Devevey. £222.00.
Good fruit, leesy and juicy, nicely dry and elegant, well-made, with some richness. 89

Meursault, Les Vireuils, Devevey. £222.00.

Very attractive nose with some leesines, attractive fruit, quite crisp and juicy acidity, very nice freshness with good underyling leesy complexity an subtle oak, almost deceptive in its length. 90

Meursault -Charmes, 1er Cru, Bouzereau, £348.00.

Fine nose, intense and concentrated toasty fruit, lovely butteriness and good rich oatmealy leesy characters, delicious opulence, with fine blade of acidity on finish, nicely minerally 90

Meursault, Perrières, 1er Cru, Bouzereau, £450.00.

Fine nose of cornmeal and citrus, very nice richly nutty fruit, creamy texture with limey fresh acidity and fine overall balance. 90

Meursault, Les Gruyaches, Jean-Philippe Fichet. £297.00.

Lovely nose, very fine, deliciously rich and creamy chardonnay fruit underscored by a nutty, leesy quality, subtle oak vanilla and juicy limey citrusy acidity in a finely balanced textured dry white Burgundy. 92

Puligny-Montrachet, Les Referts, 1er Cru, Jean-Philippe Fichet £420.00.

Fine nose, seductive fruit, not quite the eight and richness of the Meursaults but fine poise and balance. 91

Meursault, Clos des Ambres, Ente, (6 bottles) £240.00.

Good nutty leesy nose, quite strong leesy quality, on palate, limey acidity, fair, maybe lacking just a little precision? 90?

Meursault, Lafon, £396.00.

Very nice nose, soft, delicious nutty, almost toffeed fruit quality with subtle touch of vanilla, attractively nutty leesy quality, opulently fruit and good fresh acidity. 90

Chassagne-Montrachet, La Boudriotte, 1er Cru, Jean-Noël Gagnard, £390.00.

Nice freshness, quite nutty, but lacks a bit of fruit and precision at this stage ; quite toffeed and nutty. ?

Chassagne-Montrachet, Caillerets, 1er Cru, Jean-Noël Gagnard, £495.00.

Fine nose, taut and subtle, lovely elegant yet creamy rich chardonnay fruit, very nicely concentrated and nutty, with fine juicy acidity and flesh and lovely finesse to it, beautifully balanced. 92+

Beaune, Perrières, 1er Cru, de Montille, £288.00.

Good youthful colour, very scented with cherry and strawberry, fraises du bois, really elegant, approachable, lovely pinot berry fruit purity, the sort you're always looking for in pinot and so rarely find; with fine juicy blade of acidity and lightly spiced oak. 92

Pommard, Pézerolles, 1er Cru, de Montille. £468.00.

Fine colour and wild berry fruit fragrance, lovely opulent ripe strawberry pinot fruit, good concentration and textured richness, topped off with a fine blade of acidity and very nice juicy tannins but showing a little edgy at the moment. 90?

Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Louis Jadot. (6 bottles) £360.00.

Lovely nose, rich and intense, opulent fruit quality, very full-flavoured with nutty and vanilla undertones, and a fine blade of acidity cutting through the opulence like a sashimi knife, finishing with a mineral dryness. 94

Vosne-Romanée, Les Beaumonts, 1er Cru, Louis Jadot, £510.00.

Quite oaky nose...nose and fruit, so clumsy oaking and rustic fruit makes this simply not worth the asking price, I’m afraid. 87

Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeot, Marquis de Laguiche, 1er Cru, £444.00.

Fine nose, intense, lovely rich and full-flavoured fruit, very seductive, beautifully crafted with lovely subtle oak and leesy undertones, a touch of honey, and all beautifully refreshed by a lovely blade of cleansing acidity. 92

Beaune, Clos des Mouches, 1er Cru, Joseph Drouhin. £498.00.

Fine nose, lovely seductive rich chardonnay fruit, very juicy and approachable with an almost honeyed richness, but finely balanced by very good fresh acidity; a seductive dry white Burgundy wine with very pure, pristine chardonnay fruit quality. 92

Beaune, David Croix. £150.00.

Raspberry jam, nice freshness and pinot berry fruit sweetness, supple tannins, very juicy, good honest pinot, a tad rustic with an astringent bite on the finish, but good value. 89+

Beaune, Bressandes, 1er Cru , David Croix . £252.00.

Deep colour, spicy, good ripe loganberry and dark cherry fruit with a veneer of vanilla oak and a twist of astringency but overall voluptuous fruit that's well-balanced and should drink well in the short to medium-term. Good value.90

Volnay, Clos de la Cave des Ducs, 1er Cru , Leroux (Monopole) £330.00.

Good pure pinot fruit quality, quite oaky modern style, with plenty of spicy flattering oak, but enough juicy dark red fruits to carry it, and good supple tannins deceptive firm grip and fresh acidity. 90+

Volnay, Comte Armand. £198.00.

Dark damsony nose, good pure raspberry pinot fruit, touch of spicy oak, quite high acidity, but nice supple tannins and juicy acidity in an overall well-balanced framework; very fresh and lively without being astringent, and yet good structure. 89

Pommard, Clos des Epeneaux, 1er Cru, Comte Armand. (Monopole) £495.00.

Nice freshness and tannins, good firm backbone over attractively fleshy red berry fruit that has a fine purity of berry fruit flavour, lingering, with good weight and richness. 92

Volnay, Réserve Spéciale, Nicolas Potel. £198.00.

Dark-coloured and rich, quite extracted but good sweet middle and fresh acidity. 89

Vosne-Romanée, Les Petits Monts, 1er Cru, Nicolas Potel. £435.00.

Dark colour, nicely perfumed, good juicy ripe dark cherry and loganberry fruit, approachable supple tannins fesh acidity, very much for short to medium term consumption. 90

Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru (6 bottles), Nicolas Potel. £312.00.

Fine nose, lovely opulent pure pinot, lovely sweet middle, juicy acidity and fine bit evident tannin balance, structured for the medium term, very seductive red berry pinot fruit quality. 93

Clos Blanc de Vougeot, 1er Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie, £462.00.

Fine leesy aromatic quality, lovely crafted, leesy quality of fruit with an underlying combination of taut texture and opulent chardonnay fruit contained in a framework of subtle nutty oak and fresh acidity, a dry white with real finesse and character. 93

Charmes Chambertin Les Mazoyères, Domaine de la Vougeraie.

Dark fruits nose and fruit, quite concentrated, logenberry fruity, firm and extracted, but very good sweet opulent fruit, albeit with fine tannic backbone and good acidity; good texture. 91

Nuits-St Georges, Les St Georges, 1er Cru, Thibault Liger-Belair £495.00.

Dark colour, touch of spritz, very nice oure and delicate loganberry and mulberry pinot fruit quality, very juicy and approachable with deceptive structure and very nice freshness of fruit, very well-crafted. 92+

Vosne-Romanée, Sylvain & Sébastien Cathiard. £360.00.

Fine nose, freshness and spice, good raspberryish pinot fruit, good for village red Burgundy with nice berry fruit juiciness, subtle spicy oak, fine tannins and very fresh juicy acidity; overall excellent balance. 90

Vosne-Romanée, Les Malconsorts, 1er Cru, Sylvain & Sébastien Cathiard . £954.00.

Dark colour, spicy, intense, lovely fruit quality, opulent and concentrated, very high fresh acidity, lovely spine of freshness and firm tannic backbone, very much for the medium to long-term.; shame about the price. 93

Nuits-St Georges, Les Pruliers, 1er Cru, Etienne Grivot. £588.00.

Lovely pure pinot, touch of spice, supple tannins, touch of vanilla oak, very pure, beautifully made, lovely elegance behind the seriousness of purpose as represented by a firm tannic grip on the finish.. 92.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Baudes, 1er Cru, Ghislaine Barthod, £498.00.

We don't know who Les Baudes is, possibly an incarnation of Les Patterson, but this is delicately perfumed pinot, with a lovely sweet fruit purity, very damsony with juicy fresh acidity and firm but elegant tannins. 91.

Latricières-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Rossignol-Trapet. £570.

Lovely nose, spicy and sexy, very intense and yet delicate red berry fruit flavours, with a fine-boned structure from supple tannins and perky acidity in a vigorous framework that’s ultimately beautifully balanced and fine. 94

Chapelle Chambertin. Grand Cru, Rossignol-Trapet.

Fine nose, good intense fruit richness and weight, lovely vigour and intensity with quite firm-boned structure, matter and masculine vigour. 93

Le Chambertin Grand Cru, Rossignol-Trapet, £756.00.

Good colour, fine nose, lovely delicate and yet powerful fruit quality, intense rather with weight and intensity of red fruit flavours, lovely juicy raspberry fruit, very lively and beautifully balanced with a silky texture that you'd almost not expect from Chambertin. 94

Specialist wine merchants offering 2008 Burgundy en primeur:

Armit Wines. http://www.armit.co.uk/

Berry Bros & Rudd. http://www.bbr.com/

Bibendum. http://www.bibendum-wine.co.uk/

Farr Vintners. http://www.farrvintners.com/

Bordeaux Index. www.bordeauxindex.com

Charles Taylor. http://www.montrachetwine.com/

Clarion Wines. http://www.clarionwines.co.uk/

Corney & Barrow. http://www.corneyandbarrow.com

Genesis. http://www.genesiswines.com/

Goedhuis. http://www.goedhuis.com/

H&H Bancroft. http://www.bancroftwines.com/