The Seventh Earl of Longford was mercilessly lampooned for his trawl of Copenhagen’s red light district. He argued that in the interests of his porn-busting research, he simply had to visit one of the city’s raunchiest nightspots so that Christian morals could be upheld. On the same basis, it could be argued that like the so-called holy fool, I really should visit, not Copenhagen, but Bordeaux and taste the 2011 vintage in barrel next month if only to critique it as not worth buying en primeur, or pre-release. I don’t think so.

The brilliantly staged annual Bordeaux press and trade tasting week is now a gravy train resulting in the serious boosting of the coffers of the greatest châteaux. Despite staggering prices for their pre-release 2009 vintage, they made hay because the vintage was rated great. Though different in style, 2010 was another great vintage but further exorbitant price hikes left a nasty taste in the mouth. Since the much-anticipated Chinese gold rush failed to materialize, Bordeaux was left with egg on its face and wine in its cellar.

There are no bad vintages any more and saved-by-the-bell 2011 looks like being serviceable enough. But the pre-condition for buying pre-release should be that you get a great vintage at a price you’ll never see again. This just isn’t going to happen with 2011. My reading of the reports so far suggest that when the bottled wines come on the market in two years time, it’s unlikely to be substantially pricier, if at all, than on release this year. It’s time to wrest the PR advantage back from Bordeaux and taste and assess later.

Bordeaux 2008 is starting to look almost good value, and if you’re looking for a super-delicious, high-class claret as a treat, the 2008 Ulysse Cazabonne, Pauillac, £19.99, buy 2 = £17.99, Majestic is a chip off the old block of a Pauillac first growth château. We’re not allowed to tell you which one, but let’s just say it starts with an L. And it has the pedigree of the great château itself, a stylish red whose cassis core of dark fruit is polished by toasty oak and suave-textured tannins.

It’s also the case that Bordeaux isn’t the only game in town any more. If you’re not drowning in wine or haven’t yet splashed the cash on Burgundy 2010, you might try the juicy, mulberryish 2010 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, £13.75, Lea & Sandeman (020 7244 0522) from Volnay’s Nicolas Rossignol, or the complex, mineral and appetizingly bone dry 2010 Bourgogne Blanc, Gérard Thomas et Filles, £14.99, buy 2 =£13.99, Majestic. Or the wonderful Rhône 2010, whose offers, out now, include Maxime Graillot’s peppery-spicy, violet-perfumed Crozes-Hermitage Les Lises, from £126 a case, in bond, Berry Bros & Rudd (0800 240 2440).

Something for The Weekend

Something For the Weekend 17 March 2012

Couch Potato

2010 Pizarras de Otero, Bierzo.

The new Spanish wave is exciting for wines from hitherto obscure grapes such as mencia which here infuses this inky red from Bierzo with blackberryish fruit, spice and damson fresh bite and rustic tannins. £8.74, buy 2 = £6.99, Majestic

Dining In

2009 Marks & Spencer, Hunter Valley Shiraz

From Tyrrell’s of Hunter valley renown, this is Aussie shiraz in restrained mode, with its smoky, tarry berry-like aromas and elegantly tarry, spicy dark cherry fruitiness whose pepper-spicy quality is enhanced by a succulent freshness. £9.99, Marks & Spencer.

Splash Out

2009 Domaine Chanson Meursault

Improved beyond recognition, this famous Burgundy négociant’s meursault shows fresh, leesy, nutty aromas preceding richly concentrated chardonnay fruit whose underlying mealy, nutty characters end in a nutty dry aftertaste and refreshing lemony, mineral bite. £24.99, Sainsbury’s.

Ends