Best Cellars

POSTED ON 13/11/2010

Under a Tenner

2009 Asda Marsanne, Vin De Pays D’Oc, France

Attractively floral scented, this consistently affordable southern French dry white from the Languedoc shows lots of juicy, ripe stonefruit characters and a palate-pleasing freshness at a price that makes it an unbeatable Christmas party dry white. £3.47, reduced from £3.98, Asda.

2009 Tasmanian Sauvignon Blanc, Australia

Made by Andrew ‘Dr Tasmania’ Pirie based at Tamar Ridge in the island’s scenic Tamar Valley, there’s fragrant fresh herbal aromas, to this ‘Tassie savvy’ and attractively opulent gooseberry fruit flavours cut by the classically refreshing tang that Tasmania’s cool maritime climate brings. Try with goat’s cheese and rocket on brioche with a drizzle of olive oil. £8.99, Marks & Spencer.

2009 Paul Mas La Forge Marsanne, France

Jean-Claude Mas is one of the Languedoc’s most go-ahead négociants, and it shows in a dry white with a fine floral quality and ripe peachy fresh fruit underscored by a zippy refreshing spritz; full of peach and apricot flavours, there’s richness balanced by a delightfully incisive quality. £8.29, Tesco.

2009 Jacobs Creek Adelaide Hills Chardonnay, South Australia

Not just any Jacobs Creek you understand but its cool climate, elegant Adelaide Hills premium version, an aromatic chardonnay framed by cool climate elegance and toasty oak undertones, with zingy fresh fruit and a citrusy twist to the finish. A classy drop at under a tenner for fish or roast chicken. £9.99, Sainsbury’s.

2009 De Grendel Winifred, Tijgerberb, Western Cape

A intriguing dry white Cape blend of semillon, viognier and chardonnay, there’s a light touch of smoky oak here before the trio of grape varieties harmonise to bring out Graves-like characters of ripe apple and lemongrass balanced by a knifeblade of zesty grapefruit. £8.79 as part of a mixed case, Oddbins, £10.99 single bottle.

2009 Pléyades Garnacha Rosado, Spain

Made from pure garnacha, aka grenache, this well-made, satisfyingly dry Spanish rosé from Terrai in Aragón’s Cariñena region displays a pretty pink hue with a summer pudding fruitiness and snap that’s attractively clean, fresh and dry, and distinctly food-friendly. Think tapas, salads and pink-fleshed fish. £4, down from £5.61, Asda.

2009 Morrisons Chianti, Tuscany

Not immensely complex but at less than a fiver, you get bang for buck in a Tuscan rosso whose attractively textured, cherryish fruit is complemented by a typically savoury Italian freshness and the suitably dry and rustic aftertaste is just the ticket for washing down pasta of the bolognese or puttanesca kind. £4.99. Morrisons.

2008 The Parcel Series Shiraz, Margaret River, Australia

The Parcel Series, as the name implies, is based on surplus parcels of wine snapped up by Majestic at a knockdown price. This Western Australian shiraz from (whisper it quietly, Cape Mentelle) is smoky and rich in juicy blackberry jam fruit with lots of spice, pepper and a modicum of charry oak. Made for slow-cooked belly of pork. £7.49, buy 2 Australian wines = £5.99, Majestic.

2009 Quinta da Moras de Arraiolas, Vinho Regional Alentejano, Portugal

The name may be a bit of a mouthful, then luckily, but then so is this Portuguese tinto, a powerful, heartwarming, modern blend of syrah and alicante bouschet from Portugal’s deep south, whose mint and herbal characters combine with the richness and power of dark berry and plum jam flavours. Try with a steak mince hamburger. £6.99, Laithwaites (0845 194 7720; laithwaites.co.uk).

2008 Mayu Selected Vineyards Syrah, Elqui Valley, Chile

From Viña Mayu in the pisco terrain of Chile’s Pacific-cooled Elqui Valley ,the spicy aromatic quality and opulent black fruits flavours of this succulently juicy syrah are infused with spice and pepper in such a way as to make it an attractive Chile-meets-northern Rhone style red for feathered game. £6.99, down from £8.99, until 7 December, Waitrose.

2000 Tesco Finest* 10 Year Old Grand Tawny, South Australia

Beg, steal or borrow (ok maybe don’t steal) but whatever else you do, get your hands on at least one of these half-bottles. Enticingly aromatic, this Aussie tawny port-style is liquid fruitcake in a bottle suffused with caramel toffee, butterscotch and cinnamon spice, finishing with an irresistibly nutty aftertaste. Mince pie nirvana. £8.99, Tesco

2008 Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Vintage Cava, Catalunya, Spain

A modern blend of the traditional Cava varieties xarel-lo, parellada and macabeo with the uplifting flavours of chardonnay, Codorníu brings well-crafted savoir-faire to a peachy champagne-method Spanish fizz whose freshness is delivered by a crisp, appley bite. Perfect for getting into the party swing. £6.99, Sainsbury's.

Splash Out

2009 Bourgogne Blanc ‘Les Femelottes’, Domaine Chavy-Chouet, France

Stylish white Burgundy at an affordable price with complex lees-derived, nutty aromas and creamy textured richness thanks to the deft winemaking touch of lees-stirring in barrel and care in the maturation process. Must be good because the buyer is drinking it at his wedding. £12.95, or 139.92 (£11.66 p/b) by the case, Roberson, Kensington (020 7371 2121; robersonwinemerchant.co.uk).

2009 Mullineux White, Swartland, South Africa

This Cape dry white blend from Chris Mullineux is quite something: aromatic notes of spicy, honey and nutty oak and delicious rich peach and apricot fruit underpinned by a nutty oak layer and excellent freshness that’s northern Rhône-like in its flavour profile, yet with an opulence that could only be Cape. Will stand up to mild Asian curry. £15.50, Berry Bros & Rudd (0800 280 2440; bbr.com).

2009 Domaine de Nalys Les Dix Salmées, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc

Like most fine Châteauneuf estates, Domaine de Nalys is better known for its powerful red, but this white blend of traditional Rhône grapes is equally worth getting to know for its fresh spiced pear fragrance and inviting baked apple pie and spices fruit quality that’s both satisfyingly rich and refreshing. Try with a thick butternut squash soup. £17.99, Laithwaites (0845 194 7720; laithwaites.co.uk).

2005 Riesling Grand Cru Hengst, Domaine Josmeyer, Alsace

Not surprisingly, this great Alsace white was a selection for the Absolutely Cracking Wines from France tasting. And you can see why. Intensely aromatic with undertones of lime zest and rose petal, it’s mellowing into a voluptuous liquid key lime pie of a wine, all the while retaining that perky fresh zest that makes riesling a world-class grape variety. £35, The Wine Society (01438 741177; www. thewinesociety.com).

2008 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils, Pouilly Fuissé, Burgundy, France

Pale lemon with fine aromas of light toasty oak and the oatmealy character of white Burgundy whose grape lees are stirred in the barrel, the subtle chardonnay fruit flavours and nutty quality are underlined by a minerally dry aftertaste and great finesse. Won’t touch the sides washed down with firm white fish. £16.99, Waitrose Wine Direct and 46 branches.

2008 Crozes-Hermitage, Yann Chave, Rhône, France

Chave is a great name in the northern Rhône and while this isn’t Gérard or Jean-Louis of Hermitage fame, it’s surely one of the greatest modern expressions of Crozes-Hermitages, a red bursting with an aromatic peppery fragrance and seductively juicy blackberry fruit opulence infused with camphor and tar and delightfully balanced. Anyone for partridge? £17.49, or buy two Rhône wines = £13.99, Majestic.

2006 Perrin Les Sinards, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France

A typical southern Rhône blend from the Perrins of Beaucastel renown, combining two-thirds grenache with a third syrah and mourvèdre, this is spicy-scented with a peppery, heartwarming raisin-studded compote of blackberry and plum fruitiness; lovely with roast beef but still muscular and youthful enough to stash away a bottle or two. £19.99, Sainsbury’s

2008 Tesco Finest* Gigondas, Rhône, France

Splash out yes but if you’re not quite ready to push the boat out for Christmas just yet, tide yourself over for now with this southern Rhône blend that thinks it’s a Châteauneuf: lightly smoky with typical spicy and pepper, the intense black fruits flavours are succulently spicy and framed by a bittersweet chocolatey richness. Perfect for grilled meat and vegetable stews. £10.99, Tesco

2007 Rippon Vineyards Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand

From a candidate for most scenic winery in the world on Lake Wanaka in Central Otago, this is a distinctly burgundian style of pinot noir that’s made for autumn game thanks to a seductive red berry perfume, classic strawberry / loganberry flavours and a delicate touch to the vanillin oak that brings voluptuous texture and charm to the wine. Chimes equally with salmon or lamb. £27.95, or £25.50 mixed case, at Lea & Sandeman (020 7244 0522; leaandsandeman.co.uk)

2008 La Bastide Blanche, Bandol, France

With its vivid dark berryish aromas, this is a rich and spicy Provençal with lovely damson plum and dark red fruits flavours supported by fine backbone from a very Mediterranean blend of mourvèdre, grenache, carignan and syrah, the mourvèdre base bringing a sort of Barolo-in-the-South-of-France feel. Needs a good roast to bring out its individuality. £12.99, Waitrose

2009 Paul Cluver Noble Late Harvest Riesling, Elgin, South Africa

The cool Atlantic climate of Elgin in the Cape brings moderating freshness and tang to this gloriously intense riesling from Paul Cluver, a sweet white whose flavours of lime and lemon are underscored by notes of honey and caramel, yet it remains pristine pure and zingy on the finish. Try it with tarte tartin or indulge and drink on its own. £11.95, half-bottle, Tanners (01743 234 500; tanners-wines.co.uk).

1999 Lanson Gold Label Champagne

A golden Christmas cracker, this vintage champagne from Lanson displays the fine toasty aromatic and lightly honeyed fruit quality of a sparkling wine that’s done time in the prison of its bottle, and yet its remarkable mousse of bubbles is still fresh as a daisy with that delicate hint of toastiness that makes it so delightfully luxurious. £37.99 - £38, Morrisons, Tesco.

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